GeekHackWiki - User contributions [en]

Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification

2013-01-06T02:31:06Z

Rknize:

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-standoff.jpg|100px|thumb|right]]This version of the modification is similar to the [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification|Simple Center Support Modification]], except that it uses the actual location of the KBC Pure center support. This is useful if an aftermarket Pure chassis is to be used. In order to do this, a diode must be relocated on the Poker PCB.

The standoff in a Pure case will collide one of the pads for D51, which serves the "G" key switch. In order to make use of this stand off, the diode and associated pads and traces need to be removed. I opted to remove both pads and their traces to ensure that the entire surface was flat. At a minimum, the trace needs to be cut near the switch solder pad and the via at the other end of the trace.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]
[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-removed.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

I used a pair of calipers to locate the position of the hole. Horizontally, it aligns perfectly with the old trace. Vertically, it aligns just below the center line of the two positioning holes for the "H" and "G" switches. You can see the score mark in the above picture. A 3/32" drill bit was used.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-hole.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]
[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-screw.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

A new diode needs to be put in place of D51. I just used a standard 1N4148 type, which are cheap and available anywhere. Any small signal diode will do. The cathode (side with the strip) needs to be soldered to the "G" switch pad and the anode to that row of the matrix. A handy place to pickup that row is on the anode of the "H" key diode, D52. Don't use the "F" key's diode. It's on a different row. I used some Teflon tubing to protect the leads.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-new.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

This PCB was part of the Geekhack Poker DIY Kit, which had an aluminum case as an option. That case turned out to be for the Pure, which is what prompted this version of the mod. It is wise to use some sort of padding between the PCB and metal cases such as this to prevent possible shorts. The metal ribs can and will rub through the solder mask. Some people use a thin foam pad. I just used strips of electrical tape.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-mounted.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]
[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-done.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

[[Category:Modifications:KBC Poker X]]

Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification

2013-01-06T02:28:26Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-poker-kit-done.jpg

2013-01-06T02:27:21Z

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File:Keyboard-poker-kit-mounted.jpg

2013-01-06T02:26:41Z

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File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-new.jpg

2013-01-06T02:23:34Z

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File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-screw.jpg

2013-01-06T02:16:48Z

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File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-hole.jpg

2013-01-06T02:15:08Z

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Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification

2013-01-06T02:06:17Z

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File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51-removed.jpg

2013-01-06T02:00:38Z

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Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification

2013-01-06T01:07:31Z

Rknize: Created page with "leftrightThis version of the modification is similar to the [[Modification..."

[[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-standoff.jpg|100px|thumb|left]][[File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51.jpg|100px|thumb|right]]This version of the modification is similar to the [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification|Simple Center Support Modification]], except that it uses the actual location of the KBC Pure center support. This is useful if an aftermarket Pure chassis is to be used. In order to do this, a diode must be relocated on the Poker PCB.

The standoff in a Pure case will collide one of the pads for D51, which serves the "G" key switch.

File:Keyboard-poker-kit-d51.jpg

2013-01-06T01:04:27Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-poker-kit-standoff.jpg

2013-01-06T01:01:56Z

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Modifications:KBC Poker X

2013-01-05T23:13:27Z

Rknize:

Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification

2013-01-05T23:13:18Z

Rknize:

One solution to the PCB flex problem is to add a center support and screw, like the Pure. This requires drilling a hole in the PCB and then supporting it by the case somehow. Some care is required in selecting the location of the hole so that you don't drill through a trace. It is not possible to use the exact location of the Pure's center support without [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification|additional modifications]].

The area right above D51, between the G and H keys is a good location. There is ample space on both sides of the PCB. I used a 3/32" bit.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-hole-bottom.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Try to drill relatively close to the the diode so that you don't hit the trace on the top of the PCB that is right under the Y key.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-hole-top.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

This location will put the hole close to a rib in the case. Temporarily mount the PCB in the case with a couple of screws. Be sure to use the hole next to the Tab key, since it provides the best side-to-side alignment. Then, using the bit you used to make the hole in the PCB, gently drill straight-down into the case below. You are just making a mark, not actually drilling through the case.

How you support the screw is up to you. You could mount a stud/offset similar to the ones already there. You could also drill completely through the case and use a long screw and nut. I opted to support the area with some scraps of ABS (cut from a Radio Shack project enclosure) welded to the rib in Poker case using Acetone. I then drilled a small 1/16" pilot hole.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-case-hole.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

The PCB was then mounted to the case with a small brass wood screw.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-screw.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

The Poker now feels much more solid. No more extra spring around the center of the board. I'm even questioning if it was worth ordering an Aluminum case for it.

[[Category:Modifications]]

Modifications:KBC Poker X

2013-01-05T23:10:27Z

Rknize:

== Center Support Modifications ==

* [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification|Simple Center Support Modification]]

* [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Pure Center Support Modification|"Pure" Center Support Modification]]

Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification

2013-01-05T23:10:10Z

Rknize: Rknize moved page Modifications:KBC Poker X:Center Support Modification to Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification without leaving a redirect

The KBC Poker X is a compact (60%) mechanical keyboard made by Vortex. Although it seems to be getting phased out, it has a few advantages over the KBC Pure that replaces it:

* Uses completely standard key cap sizes so that any tenkeyless key set will work.
* The arrow keys are intuitively located both on the WASD cluster and on the lower-right modifiers.

It does have a few design problems, though. One is that the function lock on the Esc key (tilde) and on the lower-right nav keys is not reversible while holding Fn. Unfortunately, there is nothing that can be done about this. This is a particular problem when using vi or other cases where tilde is often used.

The other issue is a mechanical one. The PCB is mounted to the case at either end with screws, but there are no screws in the center. This causes the PCB to bow up slightly in the center, giving the keyboard a bouncy feel on the middle keys. Some folks have used a layer of thin foam between the PCB and the case to absorb this flex.

== Poker Center Support Modification ==

A better solution to the PCB flex problem is to add a center support and screw, like the Pure. This requires drilling a hole in the PCB and then supporting it by the case somehow. Some care is required in selecting the location of the hole so that you don't drill through a trace. The area right above D51, between the G and H keys is a good location. There is ample space on both sides of the PCB. I used a 3/32" bit.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-hole-bottom.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Try to drill relatively close to the the diode so that you don't hit the trace on the top of the PCB that is right under the Y key.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-hole-top.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

This location will put the hole close to a rib in the case. Temporarily mount the PCB in the case with a couple of screws. Be sure to use the hole next to the Tab key, since it provides the best side-to-side alignment. Then, using the bit you used to make the hole in the PCB, gently drill straight-down into the case below. You are just making a mark, not actually drilling through the case.

How you support the screw is up to you. You could mount a stud/offset similar to the ones already there. You could also drill completely through the case and use a long screw and nut. I opted to support the area with some scraps of ABS (cut from a Radio Shack project enclosure) welded to the rib in Poker case using Acetone. I then drilled a small 1/16" pilot hole.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-case-hole.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

The PCB was then mounted to the case with a small brass wood screw.

[[File:Keyboard-poker-pcb-screw.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

The Poker now feels much more solid. No more extra spring around the center of the board. I'm even questioning if it was worth ordering an Aluminum case for it.

[[Category:Modifications]]

Modifications:KBC Poker X:Simple Center Support Modification

2013-01-05T23:02:47Z

Rknize: Rknize moved page Modifications:KBC Poker X to Modifications:KBC Poker X:Center Support Modification

Modifications:KBC Poker X

2013-01-05T23:02:47Z

Rknize: Rknize moved page Modifications:KBC Poker X to Modifications:KBC Poker X:Center Support Modification

#REDIRECT [[Modifications:KBC Poker X:Center Support Modification]]

Modifications:IBM Model M:Nut and Bolt Mod

2012-09-05T04:32:26Z

Rknize:

This articles covers the so-called "nut and bolt mod" or "bolt mod" for the IBM Model M keyboard. It is loosely based on the procedure outlined by [http://sandy55.fc2web.com/keyboard/repair_model_m.html Sandy], which entails replacing the plastic rivets that hold the keyboard mechanism together with screws and nuts. You will need

[[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-tools.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]
=== Tools ===
* Flat head screw driver
* Small Philips screw driver
* 4mm socket
* 5.5mm or 7/32" nut driver
* Sharp chisel
* Drill press, hand drill, or Dremel
* 1/16" (#52 or metric 16) drill bit
* M2.0 x .40 tap (optional)

=== Hardware ===
* 87 x M2 Screw, 8mm Length, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92005A029 92005A029])
* 87 x M2 Nut, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90592A004 90592A004])
* 87 x M2 Washer (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=93475A196 93475A196])

== Partial Repair ==

If the end goal is just to replace some broken rivets, it is possible to do this without completely disassembling the board. There are some risks that, should they occur, will require full disassembly to rectify. It is important to keep the barrel support frame snug against the back plate at all times. Use a small clamp if you have to. If you let the two separate, the hammers can fall out of their rockers (especially if the key caps are still in place). Plastic shavings from drilling can also get between the membranes, causing key malfunction later. Again, keeping the assembly clamped can help avoid this.

Also note that once some rivets start to break, more usually follow.

Follow the steps below until step 7. You can use the chisel to even-out any broken rivets that are sticking up, but don't slice rivets that appear fine. Use your fingernail to check the integrity of seemingly in-tact rivets and prepare those as well. Then proceed to step 9.

== Full Dissassembly ==

# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-socket.jpg|100px|thumb]]Flip the keyboard over and remove the 4 screws along the back (SSK will only have 2).
# Flip the keyboard back around again and remove the top cover. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-open.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-leds.jpg|100px|thumb]]Unplug the cable from the LED PCB. Later units use a flex cable here with a different connector. Obviously, older non-LED and SSK boards won't have it at all.
# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-ground.jpg|100px|thumb|left]]Remove the ground strap between the back plate and the controller PCB. You can either try to unplug it from the spade on the PCB or unscrew it from the plate. It is better to have the strap out of the way when working on the plate, so I recommend doing that. You may need a pair of pliers to hold the nut on the other side.
# Now tilt the back of the plate assembly up slightly and carefully slip the membrane flex cables out of the sockets on the PCB. Just wiggle them back and forth and they should slide out with some effort. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-flex.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-pcb.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Lay the inner assembly down with the back plate facing up. If you leave the key caps on for now, be sure to lay it on something soft. If you remove the key caps, be extra careful about the springs that are sticking up. They can get smashed between the barrel and work surface, deforming them. One trick is to use the top of the keyboard case as a support while working on it.. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-plate.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# At this point, you will see any rivets that may be broken. Note that some holes in the back plate are not supposed to have any rivets. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-broken.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# To remove the rest of the rivets, use a sharp chisel or straight Exacto blade to slice the heads off. Setting the assembly on its back edge so that you can give the chisel a solid tap is helpful for stubborn ones. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-chisel.jpg|400px|thumb|center]][[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-removed.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Once the rivets are removed, the next step is to drill holes in the barrel support frame where each rivets used to be. One way to do this is to drill through the holes in the plate with the membranes and rubber mat removed. Another way is to mount the frame in a drill press. This works best on new frames, since they are already flat and it ensures that the holes are perpendicular to the frame. The extra flexing of drilling a used frame on a press may promote cracking. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-drill.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Drive the M2 screws through the holes from the top of the barrel support frame, skipping the row at the bottom. You can tap the holes first if you wish, but the extra friction of self-tapping the screws holds them nicely in place. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-screws.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Check the alignment of the screws to the back plate by test fitting the frame to the plate. If it looks good, begin reassembly.

== Reassembly ==
 [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-nuts.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Modifications:IBM Model M:Nut and Bolt Mod

2012-08-31T21:33:16Z

Rknize:

This articles covers the so-called "nut and bolt mod" or "bolt mod" for the IBM Model M keyboard. It entails replacing the plastic rivets that hold the keyboard mechanism together with machine screws and nuts. You will need

[[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-tools.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]
=== Tools ===
* Flat head screw driver
* Small Philips screw driver
* 4mm socket
* 5.5mm or 7/32" nut driver
* Sharp chisel
* Drill press, hand drill, or Dremel
* 1/16" (#52 or metric 16) drill bit
* M2.0 x .40 tap (optional)

=== Hardware ===
* 87 x M2 Screw, 8mm Length, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92005A029 92005A029])
* 87 x M2 Nut, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90592A004 90592A004])
* 87 x M2 Washer (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=93475A196 93475A196])

== Partial Repair ==

If the end goal is just to replace some broken rivets, it is possible to do this without completely disassembling the board. There are some risks that, should they occur, will require full disassembly to rectify. It is important to keep the barrel support frame snug against the back plate at all times. Use a small clamp if you have to. If you let the two separate, the hammers can fall out of their rockers (especially if the key caps are still in place). Plastic shavings from drilling can also get between the membranes, causing key malfunction later. Again, keeping the assembly clamped can help avoid this.

Also note that once some rivets start to break, more usually follow.

Follow the steps below until step 7. You can use the chisel to even-out any broken rivets that are sticking up, but don't slice rivets that appear fine. Use your fingernail to check the integrity of seemingly in-tact rivets and prepare those as well. Then proceed to step 9.

== Full Dissassembly ==

# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-socket.jpg|100px|thumb]]Flip the keyboard over and remove the 4 screws along the back (SSK will only have 2).
# Flip the keyboard back around again and remove the top cover. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-open.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-leds.jpg|100px|thumb]]Unplug the cable from the LED PCB. Later units use a flex cable here with a different connector. Obviously, older non-LED and SSK boards won't have it at all.
# [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-ground.jpg|100px|thumb|left]]Remove the ground strap between the back plate and the controller PCB. You can either try to unplug it from the spade on the PCB or unscrew it from the plate. It is better to have the strap out of the way when working on the plate, so I recommend doing that. You may need a pair of pliers to hold the nut on the other side.
# Now tilt the back of the plate assembly up slightly and carefully slip the membrane flex cables out of the sockets on the PCB. Just wiggle them back and forth and they should slide out with some effort. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-flex.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-pcb.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Lay the inner assembly down with the back plate facing up. If you leave the key caps on for now, be sure to lay it on something soft. If you remove the key caps, be extra careful about the springs that are sticking up. They can get smashed between the barrel and work surface, deforming them. One trick is to use the top of the keyboard case as a support while working on it.. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-plate.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# At this point, you will see any rivets that may be broken. Note that some holes in the back plate are not supposed to have any rivets. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-broken.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# To remove the rest of the rivets, use a sharp chisel or straight Exacto blade to slice the heads off. Setting the assembly on its back edge so that you can give the chisel a solid tap is helpful for stubborn ones. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-chisel.jpg|400px|thumb|center]][[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-removed.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Once the rivets are removed, the next step is to drill holes in the barrel support frame where each rivets used to be. One way to do this is to drill through the holes in the plate with the membranes and rubber mat removed. Another way is to mount the frame in a drill press. This works best on new frames, since they are already flat and it ensures that the holes are perpendicular to the frame. The extra flexing of drilling a used frame on a press may promote cracking. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-drill.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Drive the M2 screws through the holes from the top of the barrel support frame, skipping the row at the bottom. You can tap the holes first if you wish, but the extra friction of self-tapping the screws holds them nicely in place. [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-screws.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] 
# Check the alignment of the screws to the back plate by test fitting the frame to the plate. If it looks good, begin reassembly.

== Reassembly ==
 [[File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-nuts.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-nuts.jpg

2012-08-31T21:32:08Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-screws.jpg

2012-08-31T21:26:49Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-drill.jpg

2012-08-31T21:17:13Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-removed.jpg

2012-08-31T21:14:59Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-chisel.jpg

2012-08-31T21:14:10Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-rivets-broken.jpg

2012-08-31T21:10:14Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-plate.jpg

2012-08-31T21:05:42Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-pcb.jpg

2012-08-31T21:04:22Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-flex.jpg

2012-08-31T21:03:30Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-ground.jpg

2012-08-31T20:59:08Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-leds.jpg

2012-08-31T20:54:55Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-open.jpg

2012-08-31T20:47:56Z

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Modifications:IBM Model M:Nut and Bolt Mod

2012-08-31T20:17:37Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-tools.jpg

2012-08-31T20:15:56Z

Rknize: Rknize uploaded a new version of "File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-tools.jpg"

File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-socket.jpg

2012-08-31T20:15:16Z

Rknize: Rknize uploaded a new version of "File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-socket.jpg"

File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-socket.jpg

2012-08-31T20:10:35Z

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File:Keyboard-modelm-boltmod-tools.jpg

2012-08-31T20:06:48Z

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Modifications:IBM Model M:Cracked Barrel Frame Repair

2012-08-31T20:03:19Z

Rknize:

One of the Model M failures that is harder to deal with is cracking of the plastic plate that contains all of the key cap cylinders. Unicomp refers to this as the keyboard "frame". Severe cracking is usually caused by extended use with broken rivets and/or severe abuse. Between each row are channels where the plastic is thin so that the frame can follow the contour of the backplate. The plastic gets brittle over time and will crack along these channels.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-cracks.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Your choices for dealing with frame cracks are:

# Find a different keyboard and use this one for parts.
# Do a bolt mod and swap the frame from another good keyboard. This only makes sense if you have a good donor and the one you are fixing is more vintage or otherwise has some nostalgic value.
# Get a replacement frame from Unicomp. This still requires a bolt mod, but they will sell you the frame for $10. I assumed that they only stocked the full sized frames, but I was wrong. They have 84 key frames in stock. (hmmm...why would they have those?)
# Attempt to repair the cracks.

The keyboard I was repairing was a Model M Space Saving Keyboard (SSK), so the only option I thought I had was #4. I later bought a new frame from Unicomp, but only after I did the crack repair. I can't tell if the new frame is old stock or if it's a brand-new part.

Testing revealed that the frame is likely made out of ABS. This makes it a good candidate for gluing, as lots of solvents can cut ABS. Regular model cement usually has MEK in it, making it an easy choice. There are other, more aggressive glues out there as well that work well with ABS. You can also bond ABS with just solvent, but this is tricky as it requires a good fixture to hold everything together. The result is sometimes more brittle than when using a glue that has a filler, like model cement.

My plan was to cut some long, narrow strips and glue them to the top of the frame along the cracks. There is plenty of gap between the top of the frame and the bottoms of the key caps. This turned out to be unnecessary. All you'll need besides the usual nut-and-bolt stuff is a tube of model cement (the stuff you glue plastic models together with). It should be easy to find at a hobby or hardware store. Here are the steps that I followed:

# Follow the usual procedure for the "Nut and Bolt Mod" and stop after you have driven all of the screws into the frame. Be extra careful while handling the damaged frame.
# Now test fit the frame to the backplate. Leave out the membranes and rubber mat. You might want to lay a piece of wax paper down over the plate to keep the glue from sticking to it in step 5. I didn't have any issues, but it's something I thought of afterwards. Spin a few nuts on along the center and the corners to make sure all of the screws line up well. Check that the frame is following the contour of the plate. Look at the cracks and try to get the plastic aligned again so that the top is even. Usually one side of the crack will be above or below the other. Some pressure will pop them back in place.
# Once you are happy, remove the backplate again and set the frame face-down. Be ready to reassemble them quickly.
# Lay down a bead of model cement into each channel between each row, completely filling them. Keep it neat. Don't get any glue in or around the area where the pivot plate sits. Don't fill the channel higher than the adjacent ridge or it will squirt out. I did this to all of the channels, even the ones that hadn't completely cracked yet.
# Reattach the frame to the plate as you did in step 2. Add as many nuts as needed to make sure the frame is following the plate contour snugly, especially around areas of severe cracking. Be sure to check the cracks to make sure the plastic is still aligned. Pop them back into place as necessary.
# Once you are happy with it, set the assembly frame-down and leave it for 24 hours. The glue normally dries quickly, but it takes longer when it can't breath well. [[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] This is after the glue dried. Kitty finds the result to be satisfactory.
# The next day, remove the frame from the plate and check your work. The glue will shrink some as it dries, so you shouldn't have issues with extra glue sticking out. If you do see glue where it doesn't belong, it can be cut back with an exacto blade and smoothed-out with a paper towel dampened with acetone or MEK (wear gloves). Be careful not to get solvent where you don't want it. [[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued-close.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]
# Continue the Nut and Bolt Mod procedure from where you left off. It's a good idea to test it with a few nuts in place before completely finishing the reassembly. [[File:Keyboard-ssk-bolt-mod-test.jpg|400px|thumb|center]] I was so impressed with how strong the frame was after doing this that I didn't bother gluing any strips on the top. The reassembled SSK is working well! [[File:Keyboard-ssk-repair-done.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Below is a picture of the new frame from Unicomp. You can see that it has drain channels; something my '93 SSK lacks. Apparently, these are brand-new parts.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-new.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Even though Unicomp does not stock plates, membranes, or cases for the SSK, they do stock these. I'm guessing it's because it's the most common SSK-specific part that fails. The SSK is one of the more sought-after version of the Model M, probably because of the popularity of tenkeyless boards these days. There is a [http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33430.0 project] to revive the SSK using modified Unicomp parts.

[[Category:IBM_Model_M]]

Modifications:IBM Model M:Nut and Bolt Mod

2012-08-30T22:15:51Z

Rknize:

This articles covers the so-called "nut and bolt mod" or "bolt mod" for the IBM Model M keyboard. It entails replacing the plastic rivets that hold the keyboard mechanism together with machine screws and nuts. You will need

=== Tools ===
* Flat head screw driver
* Small Philips screw driver
* 4mm socket
* 5.5mm or 7/32" nut driver
* Sharp chisel
* Drill press, hand drill, or Dremel
* 1/16" (#52 or metric 16) drill bit
* M2.0 x .40 tap (optional)

=== Hardware ===
* 87 x M2 Screw, 8mm Length, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92005A029 92005A029])
* 87 x M2 Nut, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90592A004 90592A004])
* 87 x M2 Washer (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=93475A196 93475A196])

== Partial Repair ==

If the end goal is just to replace some broken rivets, it is possible to do this without completely disassembling the board. There are some risks that, should they occur, will require full disassembly to rectify. It is important to keep the barrel frame snug against the back plate at all times. Use a small clamp if you have to. If you let the two separate, the hammers will fall out of their rockers (especially if the key caps are still in place).

Also note that once some rivets start to break, more usually follow.

Follow the steps below until step N. You can use the chisel to even-out any broken rivets that are sticking up, but don't slice rivets that appear fine. Use your fingernail to check the integrity of seemingly in-tact rivets and prepare those as well. Then proceed to step M.

== Full Dissassembly ==

Modifications:IBM Model M:Nut and Bolt Mod

2012-08-30T21:47:35Z

Rknize: Created page with "This articles covers the so-called "nut and bolt mod" or "bolt mod" for the IBM Model M keyboard. It entails replacing the plastic rivets that hold the keyboard mechanism tog..."

This articles covers the so-called "nut and bolt mod" or "bolt mod" for the IBM Model M keyboard. It entails replacing the plastic rivets that hold the keyboard mechanism together with machine screws and nuts. You will need

=== Tools ===
* Flat head screw driver
* Small Philips screw driver
* 5.5mm or 7/32" nut driver
* Sharp chisel
* Drill press, hand drill, or Dremel
* 1/16" (#52 or metric 16) drill bit
* M2.0 x .40 tap (optional)

=== Hardware ===
* 87 x M2 Screw, 8mm Length, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=92005A029 92005A029])
* 87 x M2 Nut, .4mm Pitch (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90592A004 90592A004])
* 87 x M2 Washer (McMaster Carr [http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=93475A196 93475A196])

== Dissassembly ==

Modifications:IBM Model M:Cracked Barrel Frame Repair

2012-08-29T21:50:57Z

Rknize:

One of the Model M failures that is harder to deal with is cracking of the plastic plate that contains all of the key cap cylinders. Unicomp refers to this as the keyboard "frame". Severe cracking is usually caused by extended use with broken rivets and/or severe abuse. Between each row are channels where the plastic is thin so that the frame can follow the contour of the backplate. The plastic gets brittle over time and will crack along these channels.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-cracks.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Your choices for dealing with frame cracks are:

1) Find a different keyboard and use this one for parts.

2) Do a bolt mod and swap the frame from another good keyboard. This only makes sense if you have a good donor and the one you are fixing is more vintage or otherwise has some nostalgic value.

3) Get a replacement frame from Unicomp. This still requires a bolt mod, but they will sell you the frame for $10. I assumed that they only stocked the full sized frames, but I was wrong. They have 84 key frames in stock. (hmmm...why would they have those?)

4) Attempt to repair the cracks.

The keyboard I was repairing was a Model M Space Saving Keyboard (SSK), so the only option I thought I had was #4. I later bought a new frame from Unicomp, but only after I did the crack repair. I can't tell if the new frame is old stock or if it's a brand-new part.

Testing revealed that the frame is likely made out of ABS. This makes it a good candidate for gluing, as lots of solvents can cut ABS. Regular model cement usually has MEK in it, making it an easy choice. There are other, more aggressive glues out there as well that work well with ABS. You can also bond ABS with just solvent, but this is tricky as it requires a good fixture to hold everything together. The result is sometimes more brittle than when using a glue that has a filler, like model cement.

My plan was to cut some long, narrow strips and glue them to the top of the frame along the cracks. There is plenty of gap between the top of the frame and the bottoms of the key caps. This turned out to be unnecessary. All you'll need besides the usual nut-and-bolt stuff is a tube of model cement (the stuff you glue plastic models together with). It should be easy to find at a hobby or hardware store. Here are the steps that I followed:

1) Follow the usual procedure for the "Nut and Bolt Mod" and stop after you have driven all of the screws into the frame. Be extra careful while handling the damaged frame.

2) Now test fit the frame to the backplate. Leave out the membranes and rubber mat. You might want to lay a piece of wax paper down over the plate to keep the glue from sticking to it in step 5. I didn't have any issues, but it's something I thought of afterwards. Spin a few nuts on along the center and the corners to make sure all of the screws line up well. Check that the frame is following the contour of the plate. Look at the cracks and try to get the plastic aligned again so that the top is even. Usually one side of the crack will be above or below the other. Some pressure will pop them back in place.

3) Once you are happy, remove the backplate again and set the frame face-down. Be ready to reassemble them quickly.

4) Lay down a bead of model cement into each channel between each row, completely filling them. Keep it neat. Don't get any glue in or around the area where the pivot plate sits. Don't fill the channel higher than the adjacent ridge or it will squirt out. I did this to all of the channels, even the ones that hadn't completely cracked yet.

5) Reattach the frame to the plate as you did in step 2. Add as many nuts as needed to make sure the frame is following the plate contour snugly, especially around areas of severe cracking. Be sure to check the cracks to make sure the plastic is still aligned. Pop them back into place as necessary.

6) Once you are happy with it, set the assembly frame-down and leave it for 24 hours. The glue normally dries quickly, but it takes longer when it can't breath well.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

This is after the glue dried. Kitty finds the result to be satisfactory.

7) The next day, remove the frame from the plate and check your work. The glue will shrink some as it dries, so you shouldn't have issues with extra glue sticking out. If you do see glue where it doesn't belong, it can be cut back with an exacto blade and smoothed-out with a paper towel dampened with acetone or MEK (wear gloves). Be careful not to get solvent where you don't want it.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued-close.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

8) Continue the Nut and Bolt Mod procedure from where you left off. It's a good idea to test it with a few nuts in place before completely finishing the reassembly.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-bolt-mod-test.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

I was so impressed with how strong the frame was after doing this that I didn't bother gluing any strips on the top. The reassembled SSK is working well!

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-repair-done.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Below is a picture of the new frame from Unicomp. You can see that it has drain channels; something my '93 SSK lacks. Apparently, these are brand-new parts.

[[File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-new.jpg|400px|thumb|center]]

Even though Unicomp does not stock plates, membranes, or cases for the SSK, they do stock these. I'm guessing it's because it's the most common SSK-specific part that fails. The SSK is one of the more sought-after version of the Model M, probably because of the popularity of tenkeyless boards these days. There is a [http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33430.0 project] to revive the SSK using modified Unicomp parts.

[[Category:IBM_Model_M]]

File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-new.jpg

2012-08-29T21:49:06Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-ssk-repair-done.jpg

2012-08-29T21:48:34Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-ssk-bolt-mod-test.jpg

2012-08-29T21:47:53Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued-close.jpg

2012-08-29T21:47:16Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-glued.jpg

2012-08-29T21:46:40Z

Rknize:

File:Keyboard-ssk-frame-cracks.jpg

2012-08-29T21:44:16Z

Rknize:

Modifications:IBM Model M:Cracked Barrel Frame Repair

2012-08-29T21:43:17Z

Rknize: Created page with "[image title="keyboard-ssk-frame-cracks" size="thumbnail" id="1932" align="right" linkto="full" ]One of the Model M failures that is harder to deal with is cracking of the pla..."

[image title="keyboard-ssk-frame-cracks" size="thumbnail" id="1932" align="right" linkto="full" ]One of the Model M failures that is harder to deal with is cracking of the plastic plate that contains all of the key cap cylinders. Unicomp refers to this as the keyboard "frame". Severe cracking is usually caused by extended use with broken rivets and/or severe abuse. Between each row are channels where the plastic is thin so that the frame can follow the contour of the backplate. The plastic gets brittle over time and will crack along these channels.



Your choices for dealing with frame cracks are:

1) Find a different keyboard and use this one for parts.

2) Do a bolt mod and swap the frame from another good keyboard. This only makes sense if you have a good donor and the one you are fixing is more vintage or otherwise has some nostalgic value.

3) Get a replacement frame from Unicomp. This still requires a bolt mod, but they will sell you the frame for $10. I assumed that they only stocked the full sized frames, but I was wrong. They have 84 key frames in stock. (hmmm...why would they have those?)

4) Attempt to repair the cracks.

The keyboard I was repairing was a Model M Space Saving Keyboard (SSK), so the only option I thought I had was #4. I later bought a new frame from Unicomp, but only after I did the crack repair. I can't tell if the new frame is old stock or if it's a brand-new part.

Testing revealed that the frame is likely made out of ABS. This makes it a good candidate for gluing, as lots of solvents can cut ABS. Regular model cement usually has MEK in it, making it an easy choice. There are other, more aggressive glues out there as well that work well with ABS. You can also bond ABS with just solvent, but this is tricky as it requires a good fixture to hold everything together. The result is sometimes more brittle than when using a glue that has a filler, like model cement.

My plan was to cut some long, narrow strips and glue them to the top of the frame along the cracks. There is plenty of gap between the top of the frame and the bottoms of the key caps. This turned out to be unnecessary. All you'll need besides the usual nut-and-bolt stuff is a tube of model cement (the stuff you glue plastic models together with). It should be easy to find at a hobby or hardware store. Here are the steps that I followed:

1) Follow the usual procedure for the "Nut and Bolt Mod" and stop after you have driven all of the screws into the frame. Be extra careful while handling the damaged frame.

2) Now test fit the frame to the backplate. Leave out the membranes and rubber mat. You might want to lay a piece of wax paper down over the plate to keep the glue from sticking to it in step 5. I didn't have any issues, but it's something I thought of afterwards. Spin a few nuts on along the center and the corners to make sure all of the screws line up well. Check that the frame is following the contour of the plate. Look at the cracks and try to get the plastic aligned again so that the top is even. Usually one side of the crack will be above or below the other. Some pressure will pop them back in place.

3) Once you are happy, remove the backplate again and set the frame face-down. Be ready to reassemble them quickly.

4) Lay down a bead of model cement into each channel between each row, completely filling them. Keep it neat. Don't get any glue in or around the area where the pivot plate sits. Don't fill the channel higher than the adjacent ridge or it will squirt out. I did this to all of the channels, even the ones that hadn't completely cracked yet.

5) Reattach the frame to the plate as you did in step 2. Add as many nuts as needed to make sure the frame is following the plate contour snugly, especially around areas of severe cracking. Be sure to check the cracks to make sure the plastic is still aligned. Pop them back into place as necessary.

6) Once you are happy with it, set the assembly frame-down and leave it for 24 hours. The glue normally dries quickly, but it takes longer when it can't breath well.

[image title="keyboard-ssk-frame-glued" size="medium" id="1933" align="center" linkto="full" ]

This is after the glue dried. Kitty finds the result to be satisfactory.

7) The next day, remove the frame from the plate and check your work. The glue will shrink some as it dries, so you shouldn't have issues with extra glue sticking out. If you do see glue where it doesn't belong, it can be cut back with an exacto blade and smoothed-out with a paper towel dampened with acetone or MEK (wear gloves). Be careful not to get solvent where you don't want it.

[image title="keyboard-ssk-frame-glued-close" size="medium" id="1934" align="center" linkto="full" ]

8) Continue the Nut and Bolt Mod procedure from where you left off. It's a good idea to test it with a few nuts in place before completely finishing the reassembly.

[image title="keyboard-ssk-bolt-mod-test" size="medium" id="1931" align="center" linkto="full" ]

I was so impressed with how strong the frame was after doing this that I didn't bother gluing any strips on the top. The reassembled SSK is working well!

[image title="keyboard-ssk-repair-done" size="medium" id="1935" align="center" linkto="full" ]

Below is a picture of the new frame from Unicomp. You can see that it has drain channels; something my '93 SSK lacks. Apparently, these are brand-new parts.

[image title="keyboard-ssk-frame-new" size="medium" id="1936" align="center" linkto="full" ]

Even though Unicomp does not stock plates, membranes, or cases for the SSK, they do stock these. I'm guessing it's because it's the most common SSK-specific part that fails. The SSK is one of the more sought-after version of the Model M, probably because of the popularity of tenkeyless boards these days. There is a <a href="http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33430.0">project</a> on <a href="http://geekhack.org">GeekHack</a> to revive the SSK using modified Unicomp parts.

[[Category:IBM_Model_M]]

Modifications:IBM Model M

2012-08-29T21:41:22Z

Rknize: Created page with "The venerable IBM Model M has a long history, a strong following, and a good set of mods to go with it. == Nut and Bolt Mod == If any work needs to be done on the innards of..."

The venerable IBM Model M has a long history, a strong following, and a good set of mods to go with it.

== Nut and Bolt Mod ==

If any work needs to be done on the innards of the keyboard assembly, a so-called nut and bolt mod is usually required. The plastic barrel frame that supports the key caps is attached to the steel back plate with plastic rivets. The rivets are just pins of the frame that protrude through the back plate and are melted in a special jig. Over time, the barrel frame become brittle and the rivets break off and separate.

This modification entails removing the old rivets, drilling holes in the barrel frame for small machine screws, and reassembling.

* [[:Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Nut and Bolt Mod|Nut and Bolt Mod]]

== Cracked Barrel Frame Repair ==

Another failure that is common is cracking of the barrel frame. The frame is molded flat. Between each row of keys is a channel that allows if to flex to the curve of the back plate. As the frame becomes brittle over time, cracks start to form along these channels. Broken rivets can promote frame movement while typing, which accelerates this process.

It is possible to repair a cracked frame or replace it with a new one from Unicomp.

* [[:Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Cracked Barrel Frame Repair|Cracked Barrel Frame Repair]]

[[Category:Modifications]]

GeekHackWiki

2012-08-29T21:23:30Z

Rknize:

This is the wiki portion of [http://www.geekhack.org GeekHack], the premiere english-language resource for mechanical keyboards and related DIY projects on the web. This wiki, combined with the forum, will eventually make it easy to find and digest the collective knowledge of the english-language keyboard community.

== GeekHack ==

* [[Introduction]] - start here!
* [[Geekhack History]]
* [[GeekHack Staff]]
* [[Group Buy|Group Buys]]
* [[Projects]]

== Keyboards ==

* [[Mechanical Keyboards]] - an overview of what it's all about
* [[Cherry MX]] - the venerable Cherry MX switch
* [[Buckling Springs]] - the mechanical keyboard that started it all
* [[Other Switches]] - other common switch types
* [[Key Caps]] - compatibility, stem types, profiles, surface texture and materials
* [[Keyboard Glossary]]

=== Manufacturers ===

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33496.0

=== Vendors ===

http://geekhack.org/index.php?board=51.0

== Mice ==

=== Manufacturers ===

* [http://www.logitech.com/en-us/home?WT.mc_id=AMR_DR_Q2_FY13_SERP&WT.srch=1&ci=0 Logitech]

* [http://www.razerzone.com/ Razer]

* [http://steelseries.com/us/home SteelSeries]

* [http://www.madcatz.com/ MadCatz]

* [http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/mice Microsoft]

=== Vendors ===

== Modifications ==

* [[:Modifications:IBM Model M|IBM Model M]]
* [[:Modifications:KBC Poker X|KBC Poker X]]

== Making Stuff ==

One of the primary missions of [[GeekHack]] is to push the envelope on small-scale manufacturing. While we tend to focus on keyboards and keycaps, there are some other projects eiher worked on or built up by our members.

For general resources, we maintain the following thread: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33298.0

=== Keycap Manufacturing ===

* [[Keycap Basics]]

* [[Keycap Vendors]]

=== Structural Materials ===

* [[Milling]]

* [[Molding]]

* [[3d Printing]]

=== Electronics ===

* [[Key Switch Matrices]]

* [[LED Matrices]]

* [[Microcontroller Platforms]]

* [[PCB Manufacturing]]

=== Techniques ===

=== Resources ===

== Other Geeky Stuff ==

=== Audio ===